What
After establishing himself as one of the best chefs in Britain, holding Michelin stars at his restaurants Tamarind and Benares, chef Atul Kochhar has opened a series of high-end places in upmarket towns outside the capital, such as Marlow, Cookham and Beaconsfield.
Where
Riwaz is set in the heart of the reassuringly expensive Beaconsfield old town, home to the well-heeled as well as discerning celebrities. The building has the feel of an old coaching inn (and was once home to the rather less distinguished Zizzi restaurant), which bestows a welcome ambiance of warmth and informality.
What’s Cooking
This sense of being genuinely welcome guests, rather than wealthy patrons to be exploited, extends into the first, excellent course: a popadom basket, with extraordinarily good mango chutney, accompanied by a couple of glasses of ‘Champagne Atul Kochhar’. It is clear from the off that we’re in good hands. We opt for the a la carte, which includes exemplary scallops with cauliflower velouté, superb mixed grill options that include lamb and chicken seekh kebab and some of the best grilled salmon I can remember having anywhere, as well, of course, as a selection of curries of dreams.
You may think you’ve had rogan josh before, but, trust me, it won’t be as good as the Atul Kochhar rogan josh, any more than the chicken tikka you may be on intimate terms with will come close to the murg lababdar served here. The black daal is a serious rival to that of Dishoom’s, the gold standard for the dish (and owing a fair bit to Kochhar’s own innovations), while the garlic naan is both pillowy and exemplary. In short, a meal here is going to make you extraordinarily happy.
To Drink
The wine list is exceptionally well-chosen – a New Zealand Pinot Gris and the Barbera D’Alba are both finely selected and delicious options, although there are far more expensive selections available for deep-pocketed oenophiles. The cocktail list, meanwhile, is intriguing, consisting of a selection of ‘Progressive Indian Cocktails’. The Black Espresso Martini I try, as per, is a particular delight, based as it is around the Latvian spirit Riga Black Balsam. It lends a particularly herbal kick, while also achieving that rare thing: a truly successful twist on a familiar stalwart that actually feels fresh.
How Much
This is more casual in its aims and intent than Kochhar’s Michelin-starred restaurants, with prices to match. If you opt for the seven-course tasting menu, it’s £69 per person, with a further £51 for the wine pairing; £120 apiece for food and drink of this calibre is a bargain.
Book it.
By Alexander Larman
