Now, we’re pleased to report, a cadre of exceptional female chefs is infusing the city's gastronomic offerings with innovation, passion, and sustainability. These trailblazers are crafting exquisite menus and, in the process, also reshaping the industry, championing diversity and inspiring future generations. Here, we spotlight some of the most influential women at the core of London’s culinary scene.
Clare Smyth – Core by Clare Smyth
Core by Clare Smyth is a three Michelin-starred beacon of refined British cuisine amidst the already rich culinary scene of Notting Hill. Since its inception in 2017, Smyth's establishment has gathered up accolade after accolade, including being named SquareMeal’s Restaurant of the Year. Her philosophy hinges on celebrating sustainable, seasonal produce, delivering dishes that resonate with elegance and depth. Having maintained the full complement of stars at Gordan Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road where she was executive chef for many years, she’s done it again here – only this time it’s more laidback and yet somehow more elegant too. Simple perfection that only a true master could create, its ‘classic menu’ (£245 pp) offers beauties like roasted cod, Morecambe bay shrimps, Swiss chard, brown butter, while the Core Seasons menu offers delicacies such as Langoustine and wasabi pea rose geranium, almond. Revelations all round. Book a table.
Adejoké Bakare – Chishuru
From its roots as a humble supper club in Brixton Village to earning a Michelin star in Fitzrovia, Chishuru is the bold and brilliant creation of self-taught chef Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare. What began as a passion project quickly evolved into one of London’s most exciting culinary destinations, celebrated for its vibrant, modern West African flavours and warm, communal spirit. Originally from Nigeria, Bakare brings a deeply personal connection to the dishes she serves, which, at their core, hark back to her student days when she ran a fish and chip shop in her spare time (superwoman much?). In 2024, Chishuru became the first West African restaurant in the UK to receive a Michelin star, and Bakare made history as the first Black female chef in the UK to achieve this coveted accolade. Dinner at her establishment has just risen to £105 pp owing to hikes in costs, but lunch is an absolute steal at £45 pp. Book a table.
Skye Gyngell – Spring
Housed within the neoclassical grandeur of Somerset House, Spring reflects Australian chef Skye Gyngell's commitment to sustainability and simplicity. Formerly of the Michelin-starred Petersham Nurseries, Gyngell has cultivated a dining experience that emphasises seasonal British ingredients and a zero-waste ethos. The restaurant's 'Scratch Menu,' crafted from surplus produce, exemplifies this dedication to mindful consumption. Book a table.
Abby Lee – Mambow
It wasn’t always Abby Lee’s plan to become a chef. As with many of the best things in life, it happened organically, starting while she was studying at Bristol University. She began to cook for her friends – and soon, those suppers morphed into supper clubs showcasing the flavours and recipes she’d grown up with in Malaysia. After her studies, she did a two-year stint in Puglia at the Michelin-starred Pasha Ristorante, before opening the first incarnation of Mambow in Spitalfields, where she served up bowl food to delighted customers – until the pandemic put paid to her hard work. It proved a blessing in disguise; moving back home, she rediscovered the beauty and comfort of Malaysian food. In 2022, she opened Mambow in Peckham, which was an instant success – evidenced by her recent move to a larger site in Clapton. As she told Great British Chefs, ‘I want people to understand more about the cuisine, beyond just rendang, laksa and roti. There are so many other sides to it, and I’m also wanting to focus more and more on the Nyonya (a combination of Malay and Chinese cookery) side of things as that’s my heritage. Mambow definitely started with a lot of broader influences, and I want to gradually make it more and specific.’ Book a table.
Chantelle Nicholson – Apricity
Chantelle Nicholson's Apricity has been making waves in Mayfair with its holistic approach to sustainability. Building on her experience from Tredwells and the acclaimed All’s Well, Nicholson envisions a space that prioritises the well-being of both the planet and its people, offering a menu that champions local sourcing and zero-waste principles – and one that deservedly picked up a Green Michelin Star in 2023 for its efforts. She says, ‘I feel so lucky to be able to do what I love for a living. Being a chef is not only about being creative and cooking food, it’s about working together to deliver an experience for our guests. Restaurants are truly about teamwork and a passion for hospitality as a whole; to constantly strive to bring moments of joy to all.’ Book a table.
Margot Henderson and Melanie Arnold – Rochelle Canteen
From the effortless cool of a converted bike shed of an old school in Shoreditch, Rochelle Canteen – brainchild of Margot Henderson and Melanie Arnold, wives of St. John founders Fergus Henderson and Jon Spiteri – have been delivering good food cooked beautifully for 27 years. It now has an outpost at the ICA, but the winning formula has stayed the same for nearly three decades: a daily changing menu that reflects Henderson and Arnold’s dedication to simplicity and seasonality. As we approach summer, book a table and you could be scoffing the delicious likes of young garlic and goat's curd; violet artichokes, peas and lardo; and lemon sole, monk's beard, brown butter and capers. It’s all about the best producers here, and as such suppliers span the best in the biz, from Ben’s Fish and Brindisa to Farmer Tom and Passione Vino. Book a table.
Margaux Aubry – Naughty Piglets
Lyonnaise chef Margaux Aubry had us at the name of her restaurant alone: we’d take a punt on anywhere fun enough to call itself – or its diners – Naughty Piglets. All the better, then, that this excellent bistro in Herne Hill (as well as its newer sister in Victoria) serves up some seriously good food. Having cut her teeth at Terroirs and Trinity in Clapham, Aubry struck out on her own in 2015, when her new venture soon became a destination for those looking for really god natural wines. Since last year, she’s been doing monthly collaborations with itinerant chefs, and the result is ultra vibrant, always unexpected dishes that are ever changing. The latest residency was with Francesco, with punters tucking into the sensational likes of tagliatelle, aglio olio, peperoncino, langoustine tartare and seabass crudo. Fun, yes, but also deeply serious about good food. Book a table.
Anna Dolgushina and Madina Kazhimona – Firebird
When Dolgushina and Madina Kazhimona moved to London from Russia in 2020, they set their sights high, swiftly opening a high-end eaterie in the ever-thrumming Soho, no less. It has paid off handsomely. This cracker of a restaurant uses an open-fire to cook up ingredients from local and regional suppliers, stripping away gimmicks in favour of simple goodness and ancient techniques. Start with the sourdough potato focaccia and Devon crab and don’t miss the red mullet with smoked chickpea purée and cime de rapa. Firebird’s bar alone is worth a visit. Championing ‘small, natural and biodynamic producers from across Europe, who work their vineyards organically, with respect to nature and soil,’ the bottles change frequently, so punters will never get bored. No chance. Book a table.
