For all those times when a quick dash to Italy is out of the question (most of the time), London fills the gap beautifully with its preponderance of perfect pasta restaurants. Try these if you’re in need a good bowl of Italian food heaven.
La Mia Mamma
Everybody knows that the people who make the best Italian food in the world are the mammas and the nonnas who learned what they know in the kitchens of their own mammas and nonnas. When La Mia Mamma launched, bringing cohorts of such brilliant women from different regions to London for six-months stints, it shot straight to the top of our must-try lists. And it does not disappoint. There are three venues – Notting Hill, the King’s Road and Hollywood Road – all of which offer different regional fare at any given time. Cosy and homely, you can wolf down the likes of rigatone all’amatriciana or rigatoni pesto di pistacchi e ricotta, while for groups of six or more, choose a group sharing menu (£43 a head for three courses and welcome drink; £53 for four). A sheer joy or a place that underpins the fundamental Italian approach to food: that it is for sharing and should bring people together. Everyone must try La Mia Mamma. Stanley Tucci is a fan – and if it’s good enough for him… Book it.
Luca
Monocle named Luca its restaurant of the year in 2017. Marina O’Loughlin eulogised that it didn’t simply have ‘the makings of a hit, but of a classic’. And now, in 2023, it has just won its first Michelin star. Right in the heart of Clerkenwell, everything about it is beautiful, from the interiors to the terrace to, of course, the food. It is not just pasta that is served here – all the classic courses, from antipasti to secondi are served – but the primi dishes are amongst our favourites and some of the best this side of Tuscany. Tortelli of sheep ricotta, smoked broccoli, cime di rapa, chilli and garlic anyone? Or how about tagliatelle with braised octopus, green olives, capers and gremolata? We cannot resist. And nor can Giles Coren who, incidentally, says that Luca serves the best Negroni in London. Don’t just take his word for it… Book it.
Pastaio
Pastaio is that rare thing: a London restaurant run by a starry chef – in this case Stevie Parle – that is both excellent and actually affordable. It has a second outpost in Westfield, but we’d stick with the Covent Garden original for atmosphere. All the pasta is made fresh on site every day using the best quality flour and eggs from a farm near Stevie’s house, and we love the canteen-ish quality which, to us, is true to the spirit of this kind of lively, busy and unfussy restaurant. Try the clams, white wine, chilli, garlic bottarga, linguine or the cavolo nero, ricotta salata, e.v.o oil, chilli, paccheri. Che buono. Book it.
Bancone
Bancone is revered in the world of Italian food for its perfect, silky handmade pasta. With two sites – one in Covent Garden and the other in Golden Square – the man at the helm is Ben Waugh, Executive Chef. Ben worked for the Gordon Ramsay Group for over ten years before joining Bancone in 2021 where his mission is to bring exceptional pasta to the masses at casual dining prices. Choose from banquettes or the seats at the bar, where you can watch the team work. And do not neglect to order the ‘silk handkerchiefs’ (pappardelle with walnut shavings and topped with an egg). They are perfection. Book it.
The River Café
The place that trained Jamie Oliver and has a clientele so starry that its founder Ruth Rogers’ podcasts is a Who’s Who of the A-list, The River Café is a London icon. Rogers co-founded it with the late Rose Gray, and the duo would go on regular research trips to Italy for culinary inspiration. That spirit lives on in the regularly changing menu – go for the taglierini – fresh fine pasta with artichokes, thyme and Parmesan – and stay for the famous Chocolate Nemesis. And, in all likelihood, spot a star into the bargain. Book it.
Officina 00
If it’s homely trattoria vibes you’re after, you will not find them here. However, this Old Street-based ode to the humble bowl of pasta, which is housed in industrial splendour, hits the mark every time for its food. Run by Elia Sebregondi and Enzo Mirto, it is the perfect place to come and hoover up both inventive and classic dishes, from pistachio pesto with yuzukoshu and mint to tagliatelle with walnut butter, radicchio and garlic crostini. Book it.
Burro e Salvia
Diminutive and molto dolce, Burro e Salvia (meaning butter and sage) in Shoreditch is perfect for those who want not only to eat pasta but also to learn how to make it. Learn from the masters, then take your creation home – or have the chefs cook it up to eat in situ. Book it.
Padella
Buzzy, fun and based in Borough Market, Padella is the articulation of owners’ Tim and Jordan long held dream to open a hand-rolled pasta restaurant. As Time Out writes, ‘This legend’s note-perfect, well-priced pastas are as raved-about now as they were the week it opened.’ Love it here? Also try Trullo, their sister restaurant in Islington. Book it.
By Nancy Alsop
April 2023
