The History Of Pubs In The UK
The British public house is more than just a place in which to make merry (although it is that too, of course). It is held in such deep affection because it also represents a link to the past. Many of our contemporary pubs may look somewhat different to how they might have appeared in the 13th-century, but the spirit still remains. And then there are, of course, the establishments that are still housed within the same premises as they have been for centuries and whose thresholds, once passed, feel like a portal into the distant past.
Pubs have been at the heart of communities for centuries. And yet, whilst the British pub is renowned all over the world, it might surprise some that – when we trace it back even further – the tradition, in fact, started with the Italians as a wine bar.
When the Romans invaded Britain almost 2,000 years ago, it was not only their superior roads that they brought with them. They also introduced to this island nation the concept of the taberna: shops which sold wine. Dotted strategically along the roads they built, their purpose was to quench the thirst of the parched troops as they marched.
That was 43AD, but the taberna soon adapted from their Italian sun-drenched roots to fit with the climate and the produce of their new habitat. Wine might not have been native to Britain, but ale very much was. The taberna eventually became the ‘tavern’; the tipple became beer.
Historic UK offers an excellent outline of the evolving history of the pub. As Ben Johnson, author of the blog, writes: ‘These taverns or alehouses not only survived but continued to adapt to an ever changing clientele, through invading Angles, Saxons, Jutes, and not forgetting those fearsome Scandinavian Vikings. In around 970 AD, one Anglo-Saxon king, Edgar, even attempted to limit the number of alehouses in any one village. He is also said to have been responsible for introducing a drinking measure known as ‘the peg’ as a means of controlling the amount of alcohol an individual could consume, hence the expression ‘to take (someone) down a peg’.
Beyond beer swilling and providing accommodation, pubs have had a number of more surprising uses over the years, including acting as recruitment centres for the military. (One such is the brilliantly named Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem in Nottingham, which began life in 1189AD and is so named because it’s where recruits were drafted to follow Richard The Lionheart to the Holy Lands).
The term ‘public house’ came into utterance during the reign of King Henry VII, which was also when proprietors were first required to hold licences. Beer became the drink of choice and was popular not only because of its well-known effects, but also on account of being safer to consume than the unsanitary water, thanks to the brewing process. Later, in the 1700s, as cheap spirits were imported from the continent, society struggled with drunkenness and dissolution until the Gin Acts of 1736 and 1751 limited their availability and thus some order was restored. Still, it was far from last orders for the pubs, which remained – and continue to remain – massively popular.
From the 1840s, pubs were often split into rooms whose clientele reflected their social class – a by-product of the class system that operated on the new railway. Today, happily, such distinctions have been long dispensed with and anyone and everyone is welcome. And these are our all-time favourite pubs in the UK.
How To Choose The Perfect Pub For Yourself
You see them everywhere: across cities, towns, strewn across the countryside and in the luckier villages. But just how many pubs are there in the UK? In 2019, the answer to that was just a shade over 47,000. But with so many pubs in the UK, what’s the best way to go about choosing the best one for you?
There are a number of factors for unearthing the kind of pub that’s so seductive that you have to peel yourself away from it by force – and, really, it depends on your preferences. Do you favour an establishment that prioritises good ale over its food offering? Or is it good, hearty fare that you’re after? Perhaps you like a pub quiz, or a pub with darts? Or maybe it’s a cosy country vibe that makes you feel welcome. If it’s a local you’re looking for, then a good community might be a priority, whereas if it’s a place to frequent while on holiday, then your criteria may be somewhat different. You might like a pub with history, or perhaps you prefer a more modern take on the public house.
There is, however, one abiding rule: the atmosphere must be warm and welcoming.
Our Top Ten Pubs In The UK
The Sun Inn, Dedham
Essex
Rarely have we visited so pretty a pub as The Sun Inn in Dedham, which stands on the border of Essex and Suffolk. For starters, for those who come via train, it is reached via the most glorious walk along the River Stour, where there are picturesque wild swimming spots a plenty (there is a reason that Constable was so devoted to immortalising this scenery in paint; thankfully it is largely unchanged since his day). Secondly, the first sighting of the old coaching inn reflects its name beautifully, its warm sunshine yellows beckoning travellers in for refreshment. There is a thick beamed dining room which serves exquisite food and, if you’ve finished dining or, simply, you only want a drink, you can repair the oak panelled snug to sit by the fire with a book. We especially adore the long elm bar, which in itself is a thing of beauty. For those who wish to stay the night, there are a couple of cosy rooms upstairs. Hands down one of the best UK pubs. Visit the website here.
The Rose & Crown
Oxford
The Rose & Crown on north Oxford’s bijou North Parade is a pint-sized beauty with an outsized personality. Its pink façade is endlessly inviting – and while the Lamb and Flag, The Turf Tavern and the currently closed Eagle and Child are the city’s more famous pubs, we’d argue that the Oxford cognoscenti regard this as its best. Sitting on what was once farmland owned by St John’s College, ale was first served on the site in 1863, while the Rose & Crown name came into use in 1868. Its first owner was a former servant, Daniel Stokes. Today, it is run by Andrew and Debbie Hall, who have been pulling pints under its roof for more than 40 years. Under their auspices you can get a pint of real ale, a plate of real pub food (eaten in its lovely garden if you so wish) and, should you stay late enough, you’re near-guaranteed to get a ‘goodnight, god bless’ from Andrew as you make your merry exit – until the next time. For our money, one of the best pubs in United Kingdom. Visit the website here.
The Gunton Arms
Norfolk
How many pubs do you know that are situated within a thousand-acre deer park? We are aware of just one and it comes in the very beautiful form of The Gunton Arms. The land was once owned by the Harbord family, under whose ownership a succession of great landscape architects unleashed their vision, from Charles Bridgman to Humphrey Repton. The Gunton Arms went on to become the second house to Gunton Hall, and amongst its many guests was Lillie Langtry, actress and mistress of King Edward VII. But with the 20th-century came decline – that is, until Kit Martin, Charles Harbord-Hamond and Ivor Braka bought back the land. What they also did was to open a pub – but not just any pub. In 2011, The Gunton Arms opened its doors to wild acclaim – and the enthusiasm hasn’t waned since. The great Robert Kime was responsible for the interiors, while chef Stuart Tattersall came straight from Mark Hix’s restaurant kitchens. The food is local and very fine; the atmosphere is unbeatable; and the rooms upstairs are very lovely indeed. And now they even have a sister pub in the form of the Suffield Arms too, which is just down the road. Both rank amongst our top UK best pubs. Visit the website here.
The Ram Inn, Firle
East Sussex
To our minds, The Ram Inn offers the platonic ideal of the country pub and is rightly deemed one of the best pubs in the UK. Reached via a walk through the quintessentially pretty villages of Glynde (where the nearest railway station is) and then Firle, it is situated right at the foot of Firle Beacon, one of the rolling hills in the beautiful South Downs that was once used as a lighting beacon during the Spanish Armada. It is also next door to Firle Place Estate, and much of the food comes from its neighbour. The interior, meanwhile, is so utterly cosy and welcoming you may never want to venture outside again. Roaring fires, slumbering dogs, delicious food and friendly service: the perfect pub for walkers, locals and visitors alike. (Do also have a post-prandial wander up to the very pretty church, where you can spy at stained glass window by Eric Gill). If you really cannot bear to leave, there are some very pretty rooms upstairs that you can book. Visit the website here.
The French House
Soho, London
‘The French House truly deserves its reputation as the best-known pub in the world's naughtiest square mile,’ proclaims the legendary watering hole’s website. And rightly so. The French House, a Soho stalwart, has been the place for actors, wits, royalty and bohemians to rub shoulders and refresh themselves for decades. Formerly The York Minster, its punters so routinely referred to it as ‘the French place’ that eventually the name stuck. It sells more Ricard than anywhere else in Britain and serves its beers only in half pints – except for on 1 April when, recent tradition dictates, that the singer Suggs must pour the first pint of the day. Regulars to the Dean Street institution have included Lucian Freud, Francis Bacon, John Mortimer and Augustus John. Artsy, bohemian and utterly marvellous, it absolutely ranks as one of the best pubs in the UK. Visit the website here.
The Spaniards Inn
Hampstead, London
What could be nicer than a walk on Hampstead Heath followed by a trip to the pub? Very little, we think – especially when the pub in question is as glorious as The Spaniards. One of the capital’s oldest drinking establishments, it was built in 1585 as a tollgate on the Finchley boundary. Named after the Spanish ambassador to King James I, there is even a rumour that the famous highwayman, Dick Turpin, was born in the pub in the early 1700s when his father was its landlord. It has literary connections too: Dickens wrote about it in The Pickwick Papers, while Keats reputedly wrote Ode To A Nightingale while luxuriating in its warm embrace. The atmosphere has been beautifully preserved; the fires roar; and the kitchen serves up suitably hearty fare – to be walked off (or not) on the nearby Heath. Visit the website here.
Neptune’s Hall
Broadstairs, Kent
If you like your pubs to have a packed roster of events, then Neptune’s Hall in Broadstairs is unbeatable. Grade II-listed, there are festivals to partake in (including a Dickens fest, which sees the pub packed with fancily attired imbibers), gigs and all manner of diverting shindigs to get stuck into. Johnny, its proprietor, really knows how to run a pub with personality, as well as one with discerning flair on the drinks front. You’ll find a good roster of local Shepherd Neame lagers and ales, as well as guest beers and ciders – plus the pizza is truly excellent. Visit the website here.
Felin Fach Griffin
Brecon Beacons, Wales
A dining pub with rooms, the Felin Fach Griffin is nestled between The Black Mountains and The Brecon Beacons, and just a stone’s throw from the lovely Hay-on-Wye. ‘You know there's something special about the place the minute you crest the hill,’ euologises Cath Urquhart, Travel Editor of The Times, and she’s right. The creation of Charles Inkin, who trained at the famous Ballymaloe under Darina Allen, this is, as they say, ‘a warm building that pulls you in, envelops you in a big cuddle and sends you to bed with a smile on you face.’ The food, as one might expect from a proprietor with such superior training, is as much of a draw as the atmosphere and the drink. You’ll find smaller tables in the Library or Tack Room, which are lit and warmed by log fires, or you could plump for a larger table in the Aga Room. Oh, and dogs are very much welcomed at this exemplar of the cosy, inviting country pub. Visit the website here.
The Nags Head
Knightsbridge, London
If you are in search of the best pubs near Hyde Park, then look no further than the characterful Nags Head on the lovely cobbled Kinnerton Street. Right in the heart of the city, it is nonetheless blissfully quiet (until closing time, that is, when revellers spill out onto the cobbles). Small, stuffed with memorabilia, and fiercely independent, it is a classic hidden gem. And, since it has no website, you will simply have to take our word and try it for yourself. A London classic.
House Of Trembling Madness
York
There are plenty of excellent establishments to take an ale in York. None is as wonderfully named – nor as atmospheric – as the two House of Trembling Madness venues. The original, found within a Norman house dating to 1180AD, is every bit as eccentric as you might hope. They say, ‘Famed for its unbelievably small kitchen, impressively huge collection of beers, and its rich and varied history, our medieval ale house will always be associated with its quirky taxidermy animal collection, and the staff who truly embody the spirit of ‘Madness’!’ More recently it has added a second venue, in the somewhat more spacious first floor of an elegant Georgian building. Neither are places you’ll ever want to leave. Visit the website here.
Summary
Britain is stuffed full of quirky, welcoming and wonderful ale houses, inns, taverns and public houses. Simply know what you’re looking for and then embark upon a comprehensive crawl of the best.
By Nancy Alsop
April 2023
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