We will keep updating each guide. If you have a business you’d like to nominate, tag us on Instagram with the hashtag #GWGbestof. In the series, we will also be dividing London into its finest neighbourhoods and villages.
Here, we shine a light on St. James’s, the refined urban village where time has largely stood still.
FOOD & DRINK
Wiltons
Wiltons began life 280 years ago as a fishmongers. Today, its tiny façade at 55 Jermyn Street gives way to a serious restaurant, with white tablecloths, uplifting champagne cocktails and oysters aplenty. The Week says its fans heap praise on ‘the room, the service, the deep sense of tradition, the ingredients and the quality of the cooking’. Book for lunch and take advantage of the comparatively reasonable two- or three-course menus. Book it.
Paxton & Whitfield
With its two royal warrants, this sure is the posh choice for cheese. Winston Churchill famously said: ‘A gentleman buys his hats at Locks, his shoes at Lobbs, his shirts at Harvie and Hudson, his suits at Huntsman and his cheese at Paxton & Whitfield.’ It opened in Jermyn Street in 1797 and is the sort of glorious shop, with its helpful staff and old-fashioned vibe, where everything feels all right with the world. Explore more.
The American Bar At The Stafford
Another St. James’s stalwart, inside which everything feels similarly all right with the world, is the American Bar at The Stafford Hotel. Dark and club-like, its service is exceptional. You’ll go for one martini and stagger out much later with many more, and several nibbles, under your belt. It sprang to life in the 1920s and is proud to be among London’s oldest surviving American bars. Book it.
LIFESTYLE
Farmacia Santa Maria Novella
Introducing people to the Farmacia Santa Maria Novella is one of life’s great pleasures. Visit once and you’ll be loyal for life. This tiny shop on Piccadilly – an outpost of the original boutique-museum in Florence – sells exquisite scent, soap, candles and potpourri (yes – posh potpourri is a thing). The oldest pharmacy in the world, its roots go back to 1221 when a group of Dominican friars cultivated a garden and developed natural preparations from what they grew. Go shopping.
The London Library
Helena Bonham-Carter has recently become president of this wonderful members-only library in St. James’s Square. The brainchild of Thomas Carlyle, it opened its learned doors in 1841 and houses around a million volumes today. Its 7,500 members include the greatest literary names around. Charles Dickens was a founder member while Bill Bryson famously said of it: ‘I would sleep in there if they would let me bring a bed in.; Membership is open to everyone and, failing that, public tours take place occasionally. Explore more.
Geo F. Trumper
Talented barber and perfumer George Francis William Trumper started this charming shop in 1871 and has hosted the great gentleman of London ever since. Literature’s most suave characters – from James Bond to Hercules Poirot – all go to Trumper’s. With shops in Curzon Street and Duke of York Street, Esquire magazine calls it ‘the great-granddaddy of barber shops’. Explore more.
FASHION
Emma Willis
Jermyn Street has long been synonymous with fine British shirts and tailoring. The boutique bespoke shirtmaker Emma Willis upholds those ancient standards today and adds much modern flair. She has been at 66 Jermyn Street since 1999 and says: ‘I believe in British craftsmanship and manufacturing, encouraging young people to pursue the creative side of the fashion industry, as well as the social and rehabilitative powers of making things beautifully.’ Go shopping.
John Smedley
John Smedley has been exquisitely making knitwear for over two centuries. Among their many claims to fame is the fact that they made the original ‘long johns’. Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, The Beatles and Vivienne Westwood have all worn their designs. They say: ‘Established in 1784, we are the oldest manufacturing factory in the world, crafting beautiful, high-quality garments that are designed to last, made in England and distributed the world over.’ Their shop in Jermyn Street is well worth a visit. Go shopping.
John Lobb
The craftsmen at John Lobb have been making footwear for the great and good since 1849, winning royal warrants, international acclaim and plenty of medals along the way. They describe their wares as: “An antidote to the mass-produced and the one-size-fits-all, for those who value uniqueness in its most authentic form.” Their shop, at 9 St. James’s Street, is a charming, beautiful, restful place. Even HRH The King is a fan. Go shopping.
By Becky Ladenburg
January 2023
