Well, that too is awash with cool labels – some small and boutique, others powerhouses – that just seem to nail off-duty nonchalant chic with ease. While some do adhere to the trio of principles that seem to characterise Scandi design – minimalism, practicality, quirk – others offer something quite divergent from that tradition. Ultimately, the key to the Scandi look is self-expression, individualism and, simply, dressing for comfort and style in whatever such way as makes you happy.
These are the studios, labels and brands we really, really like.
Cecilie Bahnsen
You know all the unstructured, balloon-sleeved dresses that have filtered down from the high-end to the high street with such success that every other woman you see is wearing a take on the look? That all started with Cecilie Bahnsen, the Danish designer who first brought gauzy and whimsical baby-doll dresses to our attention, their billowing sleeves connoting romance, while something inherent in their relaxed cuts communicating that these are frocks to be worn every day with trainers as well as to parties. The look is more feminine than that purveyed by many Scandi brands, but despite the puffs and frills, Bahnsen keeps the palette restrained so that there is a minimalism woven into the look too. We love it all – and especially the Thelma Dress, pictured. The good news? If you love the aesthetic but baulk at the prices, there are endless dupes out there to be found. Browse the collection.
Stine Goya
Danish designer Stine Goya launched her eponymous label back in 2006, since when she has shaken up the idea of Scandi design which has traditionally been synonymous with minimalism. Challenging that idea, she set about introducing bold and playful silhouettes alongside an explosion of colour and print that would be reflective of the joy inherent in life in Copenhagen. She now has four stores across Denmark and the UK and is stocked with 450 retailers across the world. We like the Mille Dress, pictured, with its high neck and abstract painterly print. Browse the collection.
Ganni
One of the best known of all the Scandi brands, Ganni’s clothes are cool, clever, always slightly unexpected and exude a kind of nonchalant chic. Founded in 2000 by gallerist Frans Truelsen, it began as a label whose quest was to create the platonic ideal of the cashmere jumper. It has come a long way since then, collecting high profile fans such as Bella Hadid along the way – a journey that began when, in 2009, husband and wife Nicolaj and Ditte Reffstrup took over the brand and began to create the label we know and love today. In its most recent collection, we like the Black Stretch Seersucker Wrap Blouse, pictured. Browse the collection.
Samsøe Samsøe
Launched in 1993, Samsøe Samsøe started life as a jewellery shop. At the turn of the millennium, it came under new ownership and, with Peter Sextus and Per-Ulrik Andersen at the helm, took a whole new direction into sophisticated, minimal and tailored clothes. We very much like the Falcon Coat, pictured. Browse the collection.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Founded in Copenhagen in 1999, the eponymous Baum und Pferdgarten is the brainchild of Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, who specialise in bold prints, eye-popping colour and cool silhouettes, They say, ‘We want to create designs for women who want to have fun with their personal expression. Our collections can be worn in many different ways by many different women. We create clothes that help women tell their own story.’ Available across 25 countries worldwide, it’s a huge success story – and no wonder with such covetable pieces in its collections as the Jordyn jumpsuit, pictured. Browse the collection.
Brøgger
And now for something a little less established. Though it has deep roots in its founder Julie Brøgger’s Danish heritage, her eponymous brand is in fact London-based. Brøgger, which launched in 2017, defines its style thus: ‘Our collections play between the feminine and the masculine, varying from sharp tailoring to soft silhouettes, consistently balanced on the edge between formal and day wear. Brøgger celebrates playful and bold fashion with craftsmanship and quality in focus.’ We love it all – but especially love the Dagny Blazer, pictured. Browse the collection.
By Malene Birger
Founded in 2003, Copenhagen-born Malene Birger is the queen of loose tailoring and sublime knitwear. All pared-back restrained chic, we are particular fans of the Cais Wool Dress, pictured. Browse the collection.
Totême
While many on this list have challenged the concept of Scandi fashion as uniformly minimal, Totême reminds us that pared-back simplicity is what comes naturally to this nation of superior designers. We adore this Side-split doublé skirt chocolate mélange, which is crafted from the brand’s signature doublé wool. Browse the collection.
Rotate Birger Christensen
Want to party the Scandi way? Rotate Birger Christensen, a Copenhagen-based brand founded by Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars, is all 1980s-style silver and sequins, and pretty much demands to be worn on a dancefloor. Who could resist this Sequin Midi Puff Dress, pictured? Browse the collection.
By Nancy Alsop
October 2023
