In the introduction to his book, Tender, Nigel Slater – arguably the nation’s greatest food writer – says: ‘If digging up our gardens, getting an allotment, shopping at farmers’ markets, growing organically and eating sustainably is seen as a sign of our collective guilt for what we have done to the planet, so be it.
‘But there are some of us, hopeful, deluded, possibly a wee bit mad, who are happy to try to put in more than we take out. One of the ways we can do that is to eat a greener diet.’
With such inventive and inspirational food writers in our midst, there is no reason not to follow this rallying cry. Here, we have cooked up seven seasonal recipes that are easy on the planet, easy on your pocket and a pleasure to produce.
Images: Amelia Freer; Anna Jones
Vanilla Blackberry Drop Scones
Anna Jones
Key seasonal ingredient: blackberries. Anna Jones has been called ‘the voice of modern vegetarian cooking’ and, as such, everything she makes oozes with health, vitality and sustainability. These perky pancakes were a Saturday treat at her childhood home and will surely become one in yours. The saffron yoghurt is optional – but if you want to elevate an already superior breakfast, you won’t regret it. Find the recipe here.
Beetroot, Rosemary and Walnut Soda Bread
Amelia Freer
Key seasonal ingredients: beetroot and rosemary. Amelia Freer became a nutritional therapist and healthy eating expert as a result of her own burnout, so you can trust all that she has to say. This pink bread will amuse, delight and revitalise the weariest soul. Gluten and dairy free, it goes well with soup, tastes great toasted with hummus and pairs beautifully with poached eggs. Find the recipe here.
Apple Palm Pies
Nadiya Hussain
Key seasonal ingredient: apples. TV chef Nadiya Hussain rose to fame when she won The Great British Bake Off in 2015. Since then, her cookbooks, food columns and TV appearances have turned her into a national hero. She even made the Queen’s 90th birthday cake. This super-quick recipe combines apple sauce (make your own or buy it in a jar) with spices and filo pastry to create exquisite individual apple pies that are best eaten warm. Find the recipe here.
Roasted Cauliflower with Brown Butter and Sage
Gwyneth Paltrow
Key seasonal ingredient: cauliflower. She and her lifestyle website Goop may come in for masses of mockery but Gwyneth Paltrow’s recipes tend to be delicious. She spotted earlier than most that cauliflower is at its most delicious when it’s roasted – and has developed several recipes along such lines. In this one, she adds sage leaves to browning butter and then drizzles the mixture over the roasted cauliflower to serve. It is off-the-scale good. Find the recipe here.
Beautiful Courgette Carbonara
Jamie Oliver
Key seasonal ingredient: courgette. Who doesn’t love carbonara? Who guiltily scoffs it feeling it ought have something green with it? Good old Jamie Oliver has come up with the perfect way of injecting some vitality into this trusty Italian favourite. Here, he uses courgettes and thyme to update the classic pasta sauce. What is more, he says he has it on great authority that carbonara was originally made with penne. Good to know… Find the recipe here.
Confit of Redcurrants, Orange and Mint
Delia Smith
Key seasonal ingredient: redcurrants. It seems even Delia, the doyenne of the nation’s kitchens, is overwhelmed sometimes by the annual redcurrant glut. One of the clever ways she addresses this is with a zingy treat of a sauce that goes well with lamb (whichever cut you use). As redcurrants can be too tart for some, be careful to adjust the sugar measurements to your taste. Find the recipe here.
Mushroom and Roast Garlic Toast
Nigel Slater
Key seasonal ingredients: wild mushrooms and garlic. A taxi driver once said to Nigel Slater: ‘My wife reads your books in bed. There are three of us in this marriage, Nigel.’ Given that Slater has sold almost three million cookbooks so far, the cabbie probably isn’t the only one to feel that way. It’s hard to pinpoint what makes Slater so very readable – but his sheer love of food must explain it somewhat. Taste, texture and comfort are his keywords. In this recipe, he works his magic on the simple concept of mushrooms on toast – as remembered from his childhood – and comes up with a rich and creamy revelation. Find the recipe here.
By Becky Ladenburg
September 2021
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